Yann Bertrand 'Vielles Vignes', Fleurie, France 2020
Yann is a rising star in the natural wine world and Beaujolais in general. Mercifully, Yann’s is one of those domaines where cold carbonic makes sense and isn’t a goofy stylistic choice without context or historical precedent. What ties it all together is the lack of SO2 used in most bottlings. When sulfur is used, quantities are tiny (1g/l, usually): freshness and vivacity are emphasized in every bottle. All this, of course, is made possible by the vitality in Bertrand’s vineyards and his commitment to healthy ecology in vines and cellar.
Bertrand calls this a ‘particularly fragile’ parcel in the Grand Pré vineyard, with very acidic and sandy soils. Vines are all over 60 years of age—something of the flagship wine at the Bertrands’. Cold carbonic, 7-9 months in old barrel, no SO2 added.
Pairing: roast game bird with herb potatoes, bacon, egg & cheese sandwich
Viticulture: Biodynamic, natural