Joseph Dorbon Vin Jaune, Arbois, Jura, France 2012

Joseph Dorbon Vin Jaune, Arbois, Jura, France 2012
Now fully retired, Joseph Dorbon quietly produced among the region’s most soulful wines for decades, from his four hectares of horse-plowed vines in the Arbois appellation’s sleepy hamlet of Vadans. Flagrantly exceeding the category’s six-years-and-three-months aging requirement, Joseph releases his Vin Jaune only after a full ten years under the veil, and only in certain vintages (before this just-arrived 2012, we had received 2009 and 2003—and that’s it). The result is an oceanic wine of seemingly impossible power, with raging acidity wed to luscious, salt-caked yellow fruits, and given additional complexity by a raw-almond character that stops short of overt oxidation.
Vin Jaune, which is French for "yellow wine," is made from the Jura's native Savagnin grape. It is aged for a minimum of six years and three months under a natural layer of yeast (known as voile or veil) in barrels that are not topped up, which allows the wine to develop its characteristic oxidative flavors. This is a very fine example, and quite rare.
Pairing: Comté cheese, Roasted chicken with Morel mushrooms
Grape: Savagnin
Soil: limestone, gravel, clay
Viticulture: Organic and Biodynamic Practicing
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