Théo Dancer, of Chassagne-Montrachet royalty Vincent Dancer, has just released the second vintage of his new project in the Mâconnais, Roc Breïa. The story is one of Théo’s desire to work with a great plot of land, with a strong focus on farming, vineyard work, and a gentle hand in the cellar—a true showcase of terroir. 

Roc Breïa is a property located in the village of Bray in the Mâcon, just south of the Côte d’Or. What makes Roc Breïa unique is that the 10.5-hectare vineyards were all farmed conventionally before Théo joined the team, and there was little to no life in the soil. However, Théo saw this as an exciting challenge and applied the same farming techniques he learned at the family domaine to these vineyards. Dancer is already working to bring the soils back into balance, leaving cover crops and manually cultivating under the rows. He started from a disadvantaged position and is now helping the whole property to flourish into something new and exciting.

The winemaking process at Roc Breïa is almost identical to what happens at Vincent Dancer’s home domaine. However, Théo aims to showcase the overall terroir in a clear and simple way and, therefore, produces only two wines: a Chardonnay made from multiple parcels of vines, with an average age of 60 years, and a Pinot Noir sourced from parcels that are about 35 years old.

Organic. 100% Chardonnay. Sourced from four different vineyards at the Roc Breïa property, planted in 1944, 1945, 1976, and 1977 respectively. The wine is fermented and aged in a mix of 350-500L neutral French barrels. Unfined, unfiltered.

Reviewed by William Kelley

Drink Date: 2023 - 2035

The 2022 Chardonnay has turned out beautifully, bursting with aromas of pear, white flowers, bread dough and hazelnuts, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy palate with a satiny attack that segues into a charming, lively mid-palate, with good cut and a saline finish. Dancer sold off two-thirds of his crop in 2021, but the quality of his raw materials in 2022 should permit a less draconian selection.