Théo Dancer, of Chassagne-Montrachet royalty Vincent Dancer, has just released the second vintage of his new project in the Mâconnais, Roc Breïa. The story is one of Théo’s desire to work with a great plot of land, with a strong focus on farming, vineyard work, and a gentle hand in the cellar—a true showcase of terroir. 

Roc Breïa is a property located in the village of Bray in the Mâcon, just south of the Côte d’Or. What makes Roc Breïa unique is that the 10.5-hectare vineyards were all farmed conventionally before Théo joined the team, and there was little to no life in the soil. However, Théo saw this as an exciting challenge and applied the same farming techniques he learned at the family domaine to these vineyards. Dancer is already working to bring the soils back into balance, leaving cover crops and manually cultivating under the rows. He started from a disadvantaged position and is now helping the whole property to flourish into something new and exciting.

The winemaking process at Roc Breïa is almost identical to what happens at Vincent Dancer’s home domaine. However, Théo aims to showcase the overall terroir in a clear and simple way and, therefore, produces only two wines: a Chardonnay made from multiple parcels of vines, with an average age of 60 years, and a Pinot Noir sourced from parcels that are about 35 years old.

Organic. 100% Pinot Noir. Sourced from several different parcels at the Roc Breïa property, planted at various moments between 1970 – 1985. The wine is fermented and aged in large 500L neutral French barrels seeing very gentle macerations with a certain percentage of whole bunch. Unfined, unfiltered.

Reviewed by William Kelley

Drink Date: 2024 - 2035

Théo Dancer's 2022 Pinot Noir is rather deep and muscular this year, opening in the glass with aromas of plumy fruit and sweet spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and primary palate framed by sweet, powdery tannins. It's matured in used 500-liter barrels.