Lukas Hammelmann is a steadfast counterpoint to everything you think you know about German wine. I keep trying, and failing, to find the closest reference for his wines; they not only push boundaries, but they seem to rearrange the walls themselves.

For instance, this Blanc de Noir 'Caesslin' is a white wine made from Pinot Noir. I am not usually one that gravitates toward white wine made from black grapes, but this is something unique, and a lovely white for the season. The nose is fragrant with notes of violets & under-ripe strawberries. Suppose I smelled this wine without seeing it. In that case, I might guess it to be Provençal rosé.  But this is Pinot Noir, and this is a white wine.

There is a solid backbone of acidity with light floral notes carrying through to crisp brambly fruits. The mineral-rich soils of Pfalz certainly have something to do with the marked complexity here. This wine is something a little different from someone marching to the beat of their own drum.

Grape: Pinot Noir

Pairings: Light salads, roasted salmon

Viticulture: Organic